Zuhair Murad wanted to inject some lightheartedness into his collection for spring, nodding to the party girls and influencers among his clientele — and avidly snapping his glitzy aesthetic from the front row.
Referencing a languorous jet-set lifestyle on the French Riviera, from Art Deco châteaux to picnics on the beach, he paraded a plethora of extravagance on the runway in all the colors of the sunset.
On chiffon ensembles with flowing, feather-tipped trains, the hues graduated from pink to orange, from yellow to green.
Wide-brimmed hats, headscarves and ostrich tendrils nodded to the Roaring ’20s, while silhouettes had a more ’70s feel, on flared pants embellished with a graphic meshwork of crystals, sunburst pleats, radiating embroideries and deep necklines parting from accentuated waists.
In line with the lazy summer feel, he incorporated jersey in the collection for the first time, giving it the couture treatment with draping and adorning its edges with embroideries that evoked the coral of the sea bed.
There were looks that evoked a day on the beach — sequin swimming cap, anyone? Murad imagined his 21st century heiresses frolicking in his designs on a Vespa or riding a bicycle, his show notes said. In practical terms, that may have been pushing the metaphor a little, but for Murad’s glitterati customer, on the red carpet, say, his creations ticked all the boxes.
Source: WWD