Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Men’s Spring 2024

Marcelo Burlon was upbeat Saturday as he geared up for a big bash later that night — replete with a five-hour DJ set. He has many things to celebrate, including the new spring collection, a Levi’s collaboration dropping this week and the opening of his brand’s first Milan store just around the corner from tony Via Montenapoleone a few weeks earlier.

“We have so many stores in far flung destinations like Macau, and now having our home here, just feels good and right,” he said. “I could never imagine that one day I’d be calling downtown [my brand’s] home. I’ve always lived and hung out elsewhere,” he added.

In his spring collection a few — based on demand, he said — tailored pieces for the skate-loving generation — no pant pleats and no structured shoulders — mingled with gorpcore utilitarian pieces, such as thick washed cotton canvas vests and cargo pants, as well as knits in rainbow-colored patchwork.

Skimming through lookbook images on his phone to show the lineup, he said he was inspired by water as a nod to the brand’s signature blue but also as the natural element that represents re-birth and purification.

Splitting his time between Patagonia, Ibiza and Milan — the latter less and less frequently — the designer has found his sweet spiritual spot, he said. References to the former two echoed in the psychedelic maze-like graphics on suits, some with shawl collars, and the ikat patterns that have become a signature for the designer as much as his best-selling feather T-shirts.

Source: WWD