Golden Globes Fashion Preview: Red Carpet Pileup and Off-Limit Brands

After a year with dual labor strikes, Hollywood is back to preening and posing — and a red carpet pileup is scheduled over four weeks from January into early February.

The slate of events, including some rescheduled from 2023, has glam squads and design houses scrambling, and some looking back wistfully — but clearly jokingly — to the slower days of the strike and pandemic.

Awards season kicks off with the Golden Globes on Sunday, followed by the Governors Awards Tuesday, Critics Choice Awards Jan. 14, the Emmys Jan. 15, the Grammys Feb. 4 and the Directors Guild Awards on Feb. 10 — all in Los Angeles.

Of course, there are dozens of ancillary events to dress for, too, including the Palm Springs International Film Festival Awards honoring Danielle Brooks, Emma Stone, Cillian Murphy and “Killers of the Flower Moon,” among others; the American Film Institute Awards on Jan. 12, and the BAFTA Tea Party on Jan. 13.

“I’m definitely more behind,” said Jessica Paster, who has been styling Hollywood clients for 26 years. “I have Quinta Brunson nominated across the board [for ‘Abbot Elementary’], Emily Blunt nominated across the board [for ‘Oppenheimer’], Rhea Seehorn from ‘Better Call Saul’ and Aubrey Plaza from ‘The White Lotus’ nominated for Emmys.…I also have Cara Jade Myers from ‘Killers of the Flower Moon,’ who started working [Wednesday]. I wish we had known her schedule two weeks ago,” Paster said.

(Complicating calendars is the entertainment industry’s rush back into production following the end of the SAG-AFTRA strike that has some nominees juggling time on set with time on the step-and-repeat.)

“But Aubrey is one of the faces of Loewe, so they are making her two beautiful custom dresses.…I have something for Quinta that’s being custom made for the Globes,” Paster said. “So I’m in a good place.”

Quinta Brunson wearing Raisa Vanessa at the 2023 LACMA Art+Film Gala Nov. 4 in Los Angeles.

Getty Images for LACMA

“There are a lot of fashion girls nominated so it’s going to be a fun awards season,” said stylist Elizabeth Stewart, who is working with Elizabeth Olsen. (Nominated for a Golden Globe for Best Actress, Miniseries or TV Film for her role in “Love & Death,” she may very well go quietly luxurious in The Row, designed by her sisters Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen.)

Indeed, a bevy of best dressed are competing in just that single Globes awards category: Brie Larson and Riley Keough, who have both been tied to Chanel for years, and Rachel Weisz, who has been tied to Louis Vuitton.

With more stars signing lucrative red carpet dressing and brand ambassador deals to supplement acting paychecks, it does take some fun out of guessing who will wear what.

BEVERLY HILLS, CA - JANUARY 08:  Riley Keough attends the 74th Annual Golden Globe Awards - Arrivals at The Beverly Hilton Hotel on January 8, 2017 in Beverly Hills, California.  (Photo by David Crotty/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images)

Riley Keough wearing Chanel at the 2017 Golden Globes.

Paul Bruinooge/Patrick McMullan

Other contracted talent nominated for Golden Globes? Dior faces Jennifer Lawrence and Natalie Portman and Louis Vuitton face Emma Stone.

“Barbie” Margot Robbie, whose stylist Andrew Mukamal turned her press tour into a fashion show worthy of the pint-sized icon herself, was long signed to Chanel but no more. She will be one to watch, possibly in Schiaparelli, which she’s worn on three occasions recently. Music fashion superstars Taylor Swift, Selena Gomez and Billie Eilish will also be at the Globes.

On the men’s side, Brunello Cucinelli, who hosted a star-studded party at L.A.’s Chateau Marmont in October attended by Jon Hamm, Jeremy Allen White and other nominated Hollywood hunks, is expected to come out strong at the Globes, as is Louis Vuitton with Pharrell Williams’ first collection, currently being showcased at a pop-up open in L.A. through March, as well as other locations around the globe from Paris to Seoul.

Tom Ford, now designed by Peter Hawkings, has been dressing “Wonka” nominee and fashion trendsetter Timothée Chalamet for recent red carpet appearances, and could snag the actor for the Globes if he doesn’t go with something designed by old pal Haider Ackermann.

French-US actor Timothee Chalamet poses on the red carpet upon arrival for the Premiere of the film

Timothée Chalamet wearing Tom Ford at the premiere of “Wonka” in Paris on Dec. 1.

AFP via Getty Images

Others are more up in the air because the fashion industry saw so much tumult of its own in 2023 with designer departures at Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Chloé, Lanvin and Moschino that have meant fewer red carpet looks are available.

Kering-owned Balenciaga will be looking to make a red carpet splash, following the L.A. runway show last month. Ditto Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno, who is just one season into his tenure and has a very specific vision for the red carpet, seen on the VIPs he dressed at the Gucci-sponsored LACMA Art+Film gala in November.

“The main challenge is the sheer amount of events and people going — and not just my clients — combined with the lack of red carpet looks once normally available,” said stylist Karla Welch, whose clients include “Barbie” director Greta Gerwig, Critics Choice SeeHer Award Winner America Ferrera and Tracee Ellis Ross.

America Ferrera at The Critics Choice Association Celebration of Cinema & Television: Honoring Black, Latino and AAPI Achievements held at the Fairmont Century Plaza on December 4, 2023 in Los Angeles, California.

America Ferrera wearing Hervé Léger at the Critics Choice Association Celebration of Cinema & Television: Honoring Black, Latino and AAPI Achievements held at the Fairmont Century Plaza on Dec. 4 in Los Angeles.

Gilbert Flores for Variety

“We have several houses switching over creative directors, which means there isn’t always the same amount of gowns available. And so many designers are showing clothes for real life versus gowns, which I get — who out there is buying a gown?” she added with a reality check. “That said, I hope we see a great celebration of fashion and art and entertainment — we certainly need it.”

“There are so many brands that are off-limits, because they are in-between designers,” Stewart agreed. “And not having Sarah Burton, who is the queen of gorgeous dressing, is a little heartbreaking.”

Of course, that could always open up the field and create exposure for lesser known brands.

Lily Gladstone at the 2023 Academy Museum Gala held at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures on December 3, 2023 in Los Angeles, California.

Lily Gladstone in a Marni dress and Asep Designs jewelry at the 2023 Academy Museum Gala Dec. 3 in Los Angeles.

Michael Buckner for Variety

Awards season leading lady Lily Gladstone, who is nominated for a Golden Globe for Best Actress in a Drama Motion Picture for “Killers of the Flower Moon,” has been mixing Indigenous fashion and jewelry from Jamie Okuma, Osage woman-owned Burning Wagon Designs and Dine-owned Asep Designs with her Rodarte, Marni and Gucci on the red carpet. She could do that on Sunday.

There are bound to be other fashionable wild cards, too, including Natasha Lyonne (probably not in Old Navy); Da’Vine Joy Randolph (who has worn Harris Reed, House of Harry Halim and Sergio Hudson); Pedro Pascal (will he give us shorts again?); Fantasia Barrino (who has been rocking LaQuan Smith, Sergio Hudson and Dolce & Gabbana during “The Color Purple” press tour); chameleon Elle Fanning, and always-wild-at-heart Nicolas Cage.

LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA - DECEMBER 04: Da'Vine Joy Randolph attends the Critics Choice Association's Celebration of Cinema & Television: Honoring Black, Latino and AAPI Achievements at Fairmont Century Plaza on December 04, 2023 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Alberto E. Rodriguez/Getty Images for Critics Choice Association)

Da’Vine Joy Randolph wearing House of Harry Halim at the Critics Choice Association’s Celebration of Cinema & Television: Honoring Black, Latino and AAPI Achievements at Fairmont Century Plaza on Dec. 4 in Los Angeles.

Getty Images for Critics Choice

Some will no doubt wait to the last minute, weighing the options and the weather, which for the Globes is expected to be cool and windy by L.A. standards.

To help, Hollywood is seeing a return of styling suites, with PR powerhouse Karla Otto and jewelry designer Loree Rodkin among those hosting pop-ins for stylists and talent looking to glam up and maybe even stock up on good old fashioned swag. ‘Tis the season for it.

Source: WWD