Construction of the new Carven is well underway.
That was the impression to take away from the townhouse under renovation where creative director Louise Trotter showed her debut collection for the French label.
In a preview, Trotter said she wanted to offer enjoyable clothes that inspire confidence for a woman on the go and this is what she delivered in her spring collection. Her models certainly telegraphed as much with their confident stride, squashy purse in hand and block kitten heels clacking as they went.
Soft architectures and neat volumes gave off an impression of unfussy polish, supported by the wools, silks and cottons she favored.
Standing out were car coats and trenches, double-breasted jackets and blazers, all cut a shade oversize for a well-proportioned sense of ease. Sportier options like a pop-over blouson or skating shorts looked elevated when cut from satin.
In her quest to “rebuild this house into a home” for its would-be clients, she took full advantage of the brand’s very blank slate, building its vocabulary afresh with rare yet astute nods to its heritage.
Exhibit A: Madame Carven’s emphasis on the waist — one example is currently on view in the Alaia Collector exhibit at the nearby Palais Galliera — was given a softer interpretation.
Bustiers had fastenings at the top only, making them into flattering shapes that skimmed the hips rather than constrained the waist. But the same idea was interpreted elsewhere by belting her oversized car coats and blazers, or layering a sheer pencil skirt over a shirt and pleated skirt.
As smart as it felt salable, the spring read as a solid opener for Trotter’s tenure. Her neat handwriting should keep the following chapters just as clear.
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Source: WWD