IRI on Beauty’s Mass Market Recovery

As the pandemic ebbs and flows, so does beauty’s resonance in the mass market.

Data from IRI for the first quarter shows that while beauty in the mass market is capturing higher dollar sales, unit sales have not yet reached pre-pandemic levels. Lisa Mulyk, senior vice president of strategic solutions group, IRI, attributed the drop in unit sales to upticks in prices, which have gone up roughly 5 percent since the pandemic.

“It’s going to cost you more to put that face together, and everybody’s feeling it across everything that they’re buying. In beauty, in particular, we are absolutely seeing the same thing,” Mulyk said. “We’re seeing those prices going up based on what’s going on in the world with raw material costs, the labor shortages and now a war. We expect those to continue to go up.”

Digital sales for beauty are still capturing much more share than before, even in experiential categories like fragrance. “When you look at beauty, there’s a 13.87 percent change in share,” Mulyk said of the balance between brick-and-mortar and digital sales. “The highest was in fragrance, as more people are buying fragrance online now.”

Mulyk added that while the migration to digital isn’t new, both manufacturers and retailers are still finding the sweet spot between physical and online retailing. “As a manufacturer, you’re going to have to figure out where to lay your bet,” she said. “You have to spend money to get distribution in a physical store, but you also have online. The manufacturers are trying to figure out how much is too much, where it’s going to level out and how different the costs are between brick-and-mortar and digital.”

Here, a breakdown of the first quarter’s key beauty segments in the mass market.

Color Cosmetics

Eye: $455,208,442, +3 percent

Mascara: $200,837,684, +1 percent

  1. Eye liner: $106,074,174, +5 percent
  2. Eyebrow makeup: $87,794,459, +7 percent
  3. Eye shadow: $48,851,519, -2 percent
  4. Eye combo: $11,650,606, +23 percent

Facial cosmetics: $406,002,607, +5 percent

  1. Foundation: $175,134,303, +3 percent
  2. Concealer: $73,079,038, +5 percent
  3. Body accessory: $54,817,634, +10 percent
  4. Powder: $49,708,795, -1 percent
  5. Blush: $27,025,485, +15 percent
  6. Makeup combo: $16,700,290, +6 percent
  7. Bronzer: $9,537,063, +13 percent

Nail cosmetics: $342,917,908, +1 percent

  1. Nail polish: $116,145,052, -4 percent
  2. Artificial nails and accessories: $103,999,933, +5 percent
  3. Nail accessories: $67,671,153, +1 percent
  4. Nail treatment: $33,408,894, -2 percent
  5. Nail polish removers: $21,689,849, +8 percent
  6. Nail polish accessories: $3,027, -73 percent

Lip Cosmetics: $152,097,697, +18 percent

  1. Lipstick: $100,743,817, +20 percent
  2. Lip gloss: $31,026,275, +17 percent
  3. Lip liner: $15,278,564, +23 percent
  4. Lip treatment: $4,834,483, +3 percent
  5. Lip combo: $214,557, -53 percent

Cosmetics Accessories: $279,649,627, +6 percent.

  1. Makeup remover implements: $87,808,444, +5 percent
  2. False eyelashes, adhesives: $82,970,107, +13 percent
  3. Makeup applicator: $67,654,193, -1 percent
  4. Eyelash adhesives: $16,385,442, +10 percent
  5. Makeup remover (lotion/gel): $12,478,956, +10 percent
  6. Eyelash curler: $9,052,177, +10 percent
  7. Sharpeners: $3,299,308, -15 percent

Hair Care

Shampoo: $785,674,259, +2 percent.

  1. Regular shampoo: $489,328,319, +2 percent
  2. Dandruff shampoo: $145,244,015, -1 percent
  3. Shampoo and conditioner combo: $79,398,705, +/- 0 percent
  4. Dry shampoo: $71,703,220, +17 percent

Hair conditioner: $570,336,864, -1 percent

Hair coloring: $368,188,676, +1 percent

  1. Women’s hair coloring: $295,863,321, +/- 0 percent
  2. Men’s hair coloring: $46,141,901, +10 percent
  3. Unisex hair coloring: $26,183,453, +2 percent

Hair accessories: $314,486,799, -1 percent

  1. Brush/comb: $94,177,833, +5 percent
  2. Ponytailer: $68,313,246, -1 percent
  3. Band/wrap/scarf/cap: $60,016,026, -14 percent
  4. Clip/pin/barrette: $57,820,791, +5 percent
  5. Styling accessory: $21,132,490, +4 percent

Hair styling gel/mousse: $232,206,970, +5 percent

Hair spray/spritz: $139,815,923, +18 percent

Hair growth products: $25,238,870, -6 percent

Skin Care

Skin Care: $1,113,921,667, +4 percent

  1. Facial cleansers: $371,426,726, +2 percent
  2. Facial antiaging: $274,190,330, -11 percent
  3. Facial moisturizers: $260,593,634, +23 percent
  4. Acne treatments: $159,062,663, +13 percent
  5. Depilatories: $32,814,749, -2 percent
  6. Fade/bleach: $15,733,173, +11 percent

Hand and Body Lotion: $591,679,173, -1 percent

Suntan Products: $147,835,041, +33 percent

Source: IRI
Time period: Latest 12 weeks ending March 20. Percentages show year-over-year changes.

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Source: WWD