MILAN — In the words of her fictional majesty Serena van der Woodsen: “Lipstick lasts longer, but gloss is more fun.”
No wonder makeup artists relied on glossy finishes with a side of vibrant color to elevate the natural looks on the catwalks.
Take Gucci Beauty global color and makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver‘s looks for the buzzy inaugural show of Sabato De Sarno as the brand’s new creative director.
“This was such an exciting new beginning for the beauty and glamour at Gucci. I wanted there to be a simplicity, effortlessness but also an understated elegance to the beauty looks,” he said, pointing to a choice that mirrored the new streamlined fashion seen on the runway.
After securing a natural complexion with Gucci’s new Concentré de Beauté concealer, de Kluyver added bold touches of cherry color on lips here and there, courtesy of a new lipstick shade chosen by De Sarno and called “Gucci Rosso Ancora” (the name references the Italian byword chosen by Sabato De Sarno to mark his debut).
“I didn’t want the lip to be overdone or too harsh, so the line is soft, using the models’ natural lip shape as a guide,” said de Kluyver, who coated the lips with the Éclat de Beauté Effet Lumière multiuse gloss “to give them a patent leather look inspired by the leather in the collection.”
Fresh from her appointment as global creative makeup artist of Prada Beauty, Lynsey Alexander could play with the brand’s new beauty products to offer an alternative take on the trend. Instead of going for the lips, she focused on the eyes, using the Prada Dimensions eyeshadows in nude, brick and tangerine hues and tapping the Prada Augmented Skin the Serum to deliver the glossy finish.
At Missoni, Hannah Murray used Bobby Brown products to add a twist to ‘90s-inspired minimalistic skin. “There was a lightness to the collection that Filippo Grazioli [Missoni’s creative director] wanted to bring into the beauty,” she said. “I loved the idea of having a stripped-back modern face using gloss on the eyelids and cheekbones to create texture and then this sheer, yet vibrant, sunset orange wet-look lip taking center stage.”
Karim Rahman relied on Kiko Milano’s help to enhance the sci-fi vibe of the Sportmax show with a glass finish on lips, while Yadim Carranza was on double duty at Andreadamo and Del Core.
For the former, the makeup artist offset graphic or bleached eyebrows with glossy lipsticks in different muted shades, selected according to models’ skin color; for the latter, he added a sheer effect on eyelids to contrast the dark liner on the bottom lid.
Source: WWD