Buzzy Paris-based designer Jeanne Friot, a champion of genderless dressing, was seeing red for fall. The color of love — but also blood, violence and interdiction, she explained — was the starting point for her Red Warriors collection, which was inspired by current world events hampering freedom, including the overturning of Roe v. Wade in the U.S., the rise of the extreme right in Italy and violence against women in Iran.
It was a strong message and an equally strong collection which, dominated by a single shade — or, more accurately, a myriad of its nuances — allowed her to flex her creative muscles and show off her technical expertise.
A cape-sleeved gown featured hundreds of beads hand-molded in recycled polyester sewn onto a silk organza base, while in a punk register, a striking minidress was made from a stack of belts, its skirt worn open over flared pants.
It was a diverse lineup that ran the gamut from creative asymmetric jersey and knits, body-con macramé, a glittering chain mail gown and plays on tartan, from offset kilts to boxy collarless suiting, as well as her now signature feathered jeans. Fake fur provided a striking wrap coat and a hoodie and leather was worked in patchwork blocks of contrasting texture. In case the message wasn’t clear, her hoodie shouted out: “We are the grandchildren of the witches you couldn’t burn.”
Source: WWD